Eldene Eyssell from South Africa is telling us about her diving trip in Aliwal Shoal in South Africa. If you wish also to publish your article, contact me.
Aliwal Shoal dive report by Eldene
Aliwal shoal is the reef system best dived from the town of Umkomaas (which means ‘the place of the cow whales’ in Zulu). Many dive it for the sharks.
Getting to Umkomaas
Planning update, November 2026: fly to Durban and arrange the onward road journey with your accommodation or dive centre. Check the exact airport meeting point and allow for traffic; the original approximate driving times should not be used as transfer guarantees. Our South Africa travel guide covers regional bases and transport.
The Shark Diving
For me, this is adrenaline diving. Sea conditions vary considerably, but most often the boat (rubber duck) ride out to the reef is an exciting rush, bouncing over the breakers. (And it is even more fun during the week when you know everyone else is at work.) You launch from a lagoon, so no pushing the boat into the water from the beach and hauling yourself into the boat. Then you have to get through the surf. This is where you need a really good skipper.
Reefs – are pretty, with reef fishes, nudibranchs, eels, dolphins, whales and rays, but not as amazing and varied as Sodwana, especially when it comes to corals and sponges.
Sharks – these are the things. Ragged-tooth sharks are a seasonal draw, often associated with the cooler months from around June to November. Sightings vary. (One year when the conditions were perfect, I saw 28 sharks in the Raggies Cave area; and that was towards the end of the season.) Other shark encounters vary with conditions; a species list is not a guarantee for your trip. Current site rule: Aliwal Dive Centre states that entry into Raggies Cave is prohibited when sharks are present. Follow the guide’s briefing and observe from the permitted area.
Blacktip and tiger shark photographs courtesy of Bart Lukasik.
Baited shark dives are a separate activity from an ordinary reef dive. Ask the operator about its method, briefing, experience requirements and wildlife rules; bait does not make animal behaviour predictable. On my 74-minute dive we were surrounded by 25–30 exquisite blacktip sharks (not to be confused with blacktip reef sharks). The original fare has been removed because it is no longer a current quotation. Compare today’s inclusions, permits, equipment and cancellation terms directly with the operator.
Whale sharks – I have been privileged to swim with 4 whale sharks at Aliwal, 3 on one dive alone (in December). Then again, a good friend of mine who has dived Aliwal way more than I have, believes whale sharks are mythical creatures because she has never seen one.
Wrecks – There are two wrecks, The Produce (1974; maximum depth 32 m) and The Nebo (1884; maximum depth 27 m). Diving these is very dependent on conditions. I’ve tried to dive The Nebo twice, with no luck – visibility disappeared below a depth of 12 m. The divemaster is usually dispatched to check the visibility before everyone kits up and bales out. On a good day, The Produce is magnificent. It is covered with corals and ferns and surrounded by thousands upon thousands of harlequin goldies and schools of kingfish and tuna. It is also home to giant brindle bass, eels, lionfish and stonefish.
The Produce wreck (courtesy of Brightwater Scuba, Johannesburg)
Diving conditions – very varied. Visibility zero to 20+ m. Water temperatures from 20°C in August to 28°C in December. Reefs’ depths from 17 m to 32 m. Diving is mostly in the morning, before the sea get rough(er). Diving is throughout the year, but August can get really windy and unpleasant.
Where to stay?
There are a number of dive centres, lodges and guesthouses in Umkomaas, some better than others. I stay at Agulhas House, a B&B. Rooms are very comfortable, with fans, fridges and private bathrooms. There is a pool and braai (barbeque) area where you can cook your own food; a supermarket and a bottle (liquor) store are around the corner. The breakfasts, served by Mickey after the first dive of the morning, are great.
Agulhas House has its own fully equipped dive centre. You can store your gear in the kit rooms and get your wetsuit on there instead of on the beach. They load all your gear on the boat and drive you down to the beach.
Agulhas House
Other activities
Umkomaas itself is a bit of a nowhere, sleepy place. The beach is lousy and I don’t think you can swim there because there are no lifeguards. There are some restaurants and pubs, but the service is slow, especially at busy times (weekends, when locals come to dive, and December/January). The next town south is Scottburgh, which has some decent places to eat and drink. There is a crocodile farm along the way.
You could drive the hour back to Durban, which has a world-class aquarium at the uShaka marine theme park. But do you really want to see fish in captivity?
Eat hot and spicy Indian curry and rice, or bunny chows (loaves of bread, hollowed out and filled with curry).
Note
Planning update, November 2026: confirm the current marine-protected-area permits, fees and rental inclusions with your dive centre. The original R30/R95 permit figures are obsolete planning information and have been removed. Choose reef and wreck dives that fit your certification, recent experience and the day’s conditions.
For health advice, consider the whole itinerary, including any safari extension, rather than assuming one coastal base describes the risk everywhere.
Plan a current trip
South Africa diving guide · South Africa travel guide · Eldene’s historical Sodwana report
Current reef and wreck descriptions and cave rule · Aliwal Dive Centre facilities. Sources reviewed 4 November 2026.